Since I neglected to include pictures of the engine being removed, I thought it may be helpful to include  a written outline for the procedure to remove and replace the engine. There are several ways to skin any cat and I only will include the way I do it. Some guys say it is easiest to drop the engine out the bottom of the car, and it may be true for the guys with all the shop stuff. I find it to be just as easy to come out the top. So here it is, by the numbers.

1) Remove the negative lead from the battery, then remove the battery and place it in the trunk or bed of  the truck.

2) Open the heater valve by placing the heat control inside to the ‘HOT" position. Drain radiator into pan by first removing the lower radiator hose and then the next hose directly above it. Capacity is about  2 gallons total.

3) Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.

4) Disconnect and plug the fuel supply line and the fuel return lines. I usually stick a ¼ in bolt in the line and put a spring clamp around it. A short piece of line and a plug for the fuel pump ends.

5) Disconnect the wiring from the radiator fan and mark it with masking tape. Remove cooling fan and place it in trunk or bed.

6) Remove upper radiator hose from engine block and heater hoses where they connect to the heater core. Remove radiator and place it where it cannot get damaged.

7) Carefully label and disconnect the wires leading to the engine. Make it obvious where they go and do not rely on your memory…

8) Disconnect the vacuum line at the power brake booster and any other vacuum lines.

9) Disconnect the throttle linkage from the pump and the cable behind the pump that goes to the ‘cold  start’ lever in the car.

10) Disconnect the speedometer cable by removing the #3 Phillips screw and withdrawing the cable.  Plug the opening to prevent contamination.

11) Disconnect the shift linkage by lifting the ‘latch’ and opening the ball coupler in two places.  Leave one end attached so that you can replace it in the same way. Pull the hair pin on the transverse link and replace it once you have disconnected that linkage.

12) Loosen the locknut on the clutch cable and give it a little slack and then lift up on the release arm and move the locking plate off to one side to release clutch cable. Stow off to one side.

13) If vehicle has A/C, make a choice whether to remove the lines (and waste freon and create a new  hole for the ozone) or disassemble the front of the engine to get the compressor out without  disconnecting the suction and discharge freon lines.

14) A choice here. It may be easier to loosen the axle drive nuts now before you raise the vehicle. If  you loosen them, you will not have to backtrack to do it later if necessary. But if you do – DON’T FORGET!

15) Raise the vehicle and disconnect the exhaust "C" clamps using super special tool. If you pry them off with big knarly screwdriver – how you gonna get them back on? While your down there, disconnect the CV bolts on each flange – 6 each side. Clean out the gunk, place special Allen wrench in socket and tap with a hammer, then break loose. These bolts are $1.50 each… Keep the axle from  turning by clamping a large pair of Vice grips on the outboard end of the axle where the axle is solid and clear of the boot.

16) If you elected to loosen the axle nuts, you can remove them and the entire CV axle assembly and get them out of the way. You can leave the CV axles and just wire them up out of the way. Do not let  them just hang from the outboard ends as they may become disconnected from the outer joint. If you  lift the engine out the top, you can leave the exhaust down pipe installed. Remove the motor mount at the rear engine/transmission joint. Should be three nuts holding it on. Check to see if the shift linkage is clear and then lower the car.

17) Take a careful look and make sure there is nothing else besides the motor mounts holding the engine in.

18) Attach engine hoist to the two places provided on the engine. One on the alternator bracket and the other cast into the head at the transmission end. Put enough strain on the hoist to slightly lift the car.  Then remove the mount in the front of the engine by removing the starter and the front mount, including  the ‘cup’ bolted to the lower radiator support. Then remove the mount on the transmission, completely remove the mount from the transmission (two bolts, one facing each way), and then from the body. Finally, remove the bolt from the passenger side mount and the engine should be free to lift.

19) Go slow. Lower the engine a little until the transmission can be slid under the driver’s side frame rail. Push the assembly to the right and there should be enough room to get the left side of the engine over the frame rail and lift the critter out. Never get in a hurry and always keep an eye out for that wire or line you forgot

20) Think safety. Working on cars is kinda fun but getting hurt or killed will ruin your whole day.

22) One other oddball thing while I am typing. The torque procedure for the head bolts is unique and  somewhat confusing. Most everyone knows to torque bolts in a pattern (criss-cross or whatever) and to  do it in stages, but this engine is way stranger than that. First, normal torque - in pattern and in stages  to 50 lb-ft, than an additional 90 Degrees of tightening without stopping or loosening. If you ever loosen a 12mm stretch bolt, take it out and replace it. Then, after you have started the engine and it has reached operating temperature (fan cycling at least once) shut down the engine and torque the head bolts in order an additional 90 degrees, slowly and without stopping. After the vehicle is in service for 1000 miles, torque them again another 90 degrees. The mixture of degrees and lb-ft just blows my mind but the Germans have always done things a little different.

Here we see the engine after a good washing with Gunk engine cleaner and hot water. All  openings that could be affected by water were covered.

Here is another view of the Turbo motor. I could have installed it without any engine work, but I have very bad luck and a failure would have resulted. A partial teardown is required nonetheless, to change  one of the motor mounts. More on that later.

I have uncovered the Turbo inlet to show some things that should be checked. You can easily reach the nut that holds the impeller onto the shaft and the impeller should turn freely with very little side-to-side motion. Some play is normal, but not much. Also, there should not be a lot of engine oil in the inlet as that is a sign of high blow-by. For this project, I am assuming the Turbo, wastegate and pop-off valve are serviceable as they are not difficult to change once the engine is installed.

This picture shows the cast marking the VW has denoted on the rear of the block (when installed). You may find 1.5D, 1.6D, 1.7, 1.8, 2.0 markings on the block. The actual engine code must be used to determine if a block was built as a Turbo or NA (Natural Aspiration). Do not attempt to convert a NA block to a Turbo. It will fail in service. More on that later.

This decal on the valve cover denotes this engine is equipped with Hydraulic lifters which do not require periodic adjustments. Some experienced VW mechanics prefer the solid discs to the Hydraulic lifters. They rarely require adjustment anyway and are very inexpensive to change discs. The Hydraulic lifters are very expensive and are not interchangeable with the solids.

In the center is a correct cruise control servo installed on the fuel pump. (Green arrow) This vehicle will not be using it but it will be saved for possible future use. Note the corrosion on the fuel lines. (Red arrows) These lines contain 1800 PSI when the engine is at full power so heavy corrosion will lead to leaking and expensive repair. Fuel lines to cylinders 1 and 2 are specific to the Turbo and are expensive ($45 each).

This is the original oil cooler installed by VW. It is very effective and can be found on various models of VW engines. It is expensive to purchase used, about $100, so care must be used to prevent damage. Note the existing damage (Red arrow) on the side of the cooler. Further tests will be required to determine whether or not this cooler is suitable for service. BE CAREFUL!

Although not obvious in the picture, the oil pan has been shoved in on the right side. (Red arrow) It may be salvageable, but a replacement part is specific to the Turbo and is expensive. One more thing to  check. You can also see the correct orientation of the oil cooler in this picture. The aluminum bracket on the left is for power steering. This vehicle will not use the bracket but it will be reinstalled as it adds rigidity to the other brackets on the engine. You can easily see the water pump under the A/C  compressor and guess how much work it would be to change it once this engine is installed.

Here we see a little Ozark engineering. (I AM a hillbilly and have a right to say that!) I have used a bell  housing bolt and clutch bolt with a screwdriver between them to lock the pressure plate in place to loosen the bolts.

Upon removal of the pressure plate, obvious leakage of the rear main seal is evident. Just one reason why I tear them down when it is easy. This would be a two-day job once the engine is installed.

Here we see the oil pan removed, the clutch removed, the timing belt cover removed, and the A/C compressor and alternator removed. As much as possible, replace the bolts and nuts back where you  found them to speed identification and reassembly.

A view of the timing belt and the correct routing around the various pulleys. Now would be a great time to loosen all the bolts on the water pump and crankshaft pulleys.

If you forget, you can always use a universal socket tool…

There are times when you simply have to use the correct tool. The crankshaft pulley is centered with a taper and corrosion sometimes makes it difficult to remove. Other times, it just pops off. Sorry about  the blurry pictures, this is relatively low light and slow shutter speeds. (also high coffee levels)

This bracket that holds the Turbo return oil line will have to be modified for the A1 motor mount to work. A better picture is coming.

This really poor picture shows the injector pump and lines removed.

Here the injectors and glow plugs have been removed and sent out for testing. The glow plugs can be tested on the bench using a battery charger or spare battery. They should glow red within 5 seconds. All Turbo motors have quick-glow plugs to help smoking exhaust after start-up. The injectors and pump require testing at a diesel shop. It is good insurance against having to pull a pump later- and retiming the motor.

This really fuzzy picture shows the entire reason the engine requires teardown. This fuel pump mounting plate will not work in the A1 as there is no provision for mounting the required vibration mount. More on that later. If you were using an engine you already own or have a history of, this would be the only piece actually requiring change.

One of the most common complaints of the VW Diesel engine is that of failed head gaskets. Some VW mechanics will not install an unknown motor without replacing them. Me either. Easier now than later. The vacuum pump and water pump housing have been removed. The blank-off plate used for gas engine fuel pumps will remain. All surfaces that contact gaskets are cleaned with a Scotchbrite pad on a high-speed grinder. It is obvious from here I could have placed this engine back in service without a teardown, but had I not checked, something would be wrong…

The crankshaft, pistons, and rods are removed after marking them as to which bore they came from and which way they were installed. The cylinder walls show very light scuffing and the ridge at the top is almost undetectable. The ridges at the top of the cylinder was cut and the bores honed with a ball hone.

Looking from the top of the bore down to the bottom you can see a small pipe with a nozzle facing upward. This is a cooling jet for the bottom of the piston. This is specific to the Turbo block and is  required to keep the pistons from failing under the increased heat in the Turbo application. It is required or VW would not have done it…

Ahhh, the engine back from the bath and sprayed with Black engine enamel. As the engine is reassembled, many parts that were not originally painted will receive paint. This is to prevent corrosion and later failure. Doesn’t hurt the looks either.

A little out of sequence but I wanted to show the gallery where the piston cooling oil jets are mounted, it is very important to check these to see they are not blocked.

The cooling jets installed. They require a sealing compound around them and Lock-Tite on the screws.  Just imagine what would happen if one of these falls out… None of the NA blocks have these cooling jets. Lets review. The Turbo block is different, pistons are different, head is different, pump is different…. If you chose to put an aftermarket Turbo on your NA, either get a bunch of gauges and drive easy, or get ready to buy another motor. I am not a fan of aftermarket Turbo’s.

New main bearing shells being installed. Good practice includes checking the bearings with Plastigage to positively determine clearances before final assembly.

Really crappy pic showing bearing lube applied to main bearing surfaces before crankshaft is installed. This assembly lube, from Michigan Bearing, is used wherever moving surfaces mate.

Crankshaft installed with the main bearing caps installed in the same place and same direction they were removed. The crank should spin with very light hand pressure as we did not grind the crank or use undersize bearings. As you assemble the engine, continue turning the crank so you can assure yourself it is going together correctly. If you can’t turn it by hand, you screwed up…. Sorry

Here is the bearing goop on a rod bearing. The same plastigage should be used to verify the clearance of the rod bearing. Clearances more than the factory dictates will result in low oil pressure. The Turbo motor is more susceptible to this due to the oil required to lube the Turbo itself and cooling jets for the pistons. The rod bolts and nuts are generally reused. Reinstall pistons in the same bores and in the same direction they came out of. The rod caps must also go back exactly where they came from.

Bearing lube applied to the lower shell and also the piston rings (after an initial bath in engine oil). Care must be used in installing piston/con rods as the con rod bolts can scratch the crank or rings can hang up on the block surface and damage the rings or pistons. Note the notch cut in the piston skirt to accommodate the cooling jet nozzles.

Crank, rods, pistons and new oil pump installed. Oil pumps for the Turbo are now used for all watercooled VW motors. They utilize 36 mm gears and are quite enough to build pressure in any VW motor.  All gasket surfaces are coated with a very light coat of Hylamar sealant, all bolts are treated with LockTite Blue. No sealant is used between the block and the oil pump.

Another really crappy picture which is actually very important. This fuel pump mounting plate is the one required for the A1 (Rabbit) body. Notice the vibration mount on the left side in this pic. Also note I forgot to install the tin cover that goes behind this mount and I will have to backtrack to install it a little later. Also, these actual mounts on the A1 cars fail routinely. New ones are installed at this time.

This is the new thermostat and new water pump installed on the water pump housing. Now is the time. If you install a used water pump or thermostat and it fails later – you will really be mad! Also, use only  German water pumps and thermostats. There is a huge difference. Maybe I can find a cheap one and make a comparison.

All right, I found the pic of the Jap and  the German water pumps.    Believe  it  or  not, most engine  builders  prefer the  Japanese  pump!   I was told the flow from the Japanese  pump was actually better than the OE German   brand....    The  German pump is on  the left.  GMB  brand  on  the  right.  I  can't  believe it and will continue to  use the German pumps until I have something substantial that shows better flow with the wimpy  Japanese pump....   you gotta show me  - I'm  from  Missouri!

Oil pan was repaired and repainted before being installed. All brackets were bead-blasted and repainted before being installed. All bolts were wire brushed and sprayed with graphite to slow corrosion and  make it easier to work on in the future.

Here the water pump housing is installed under the bracket for the A/C compressor and Alternator. It is  a lot of work to replace any of this stuff later, so do it now.

I don’t know if it can be seen, but between the valves on #3 cylinder is a fine crack. This is very  common to water-cooled VW engines and is allowed as long as the crack is less than .020 in. Don’t let the shop guy tell you a new head is needed when it will crack as soon as it is used also…. This head was not rebuilt as it checked out fine.

These are the infamous 12 mm stretch head bolts. They MUST be replaced any time torque is applied to them and they cost $3.50 each or all 10 for $25. Don’t even think about not replacing them! (The cost has gone up since I originally wrote this article, in early 2008  - a set cost  $45)

I elected to reuse the oil cooler after checking it out. It didn’t leak between the water and oil sides (which sometimes happens) and held pressure just fine. Note the correct routing of the water hoses. These hoses are specific to the Turbo and are expensive. The vertical hose in this picture is $45.

Replace it now or try to find one on the side of the road…

Here you can see the oil supply line to the Turbo and the water line to the heater in the car. Both have been blasted, cleaned and painted to prevent further corrosion. Valve cover has also been painted.

This is where I had to double back to reinstall the timing belt rear cover. Now that I have done it  wrong, no excuse for you guys.. (or gals)

Ready to start work on the technical end of the engine. Installing the timing belt and getting the timing correct is paramount in assembling the engine. If the valve timing is off, the valves will hit the pistons (and bend), if the fuel timing is off, the engine will not run well or at all…

This is one of the modifications that has to be done to utilize a Turbo in an A1 car. The bracket for the Turbo oil return is cut to clear the passenger side mount. Also note the new timing belt and tensioner. Again, cheap insurance. Whenever the belt breaks, pull motor and toss in the junk…. Replace belt no more than 60,000  miles…Preferably 30,000.

Another view of the modified bracket.

Once again, an Ozark fix to keep the crank from turning while tightening the pressure plate attach bolts. Note fresh paint on tin shield, I really hate ugly motors…. I will clean the greasy prints off the clutch before I install the disc and flywheel.

Sometimes you have to use the correct tools. Note the alignment tool for the disc and the flywheel lock for tightening the flywheel bolts.

This is not a Martian landscape. It is if you look hard enough, the timing mark on the flywheel lining up with the index on the bell housing. It is crucial that timing mark, cam tool and fuel pump timing be done correctly. As this Caddy is a driver, I’m not going to clean up or paint this transmission, other than just hosing the normal grease and grime off.

I’m not sure this pic will help or not. It is supposed to show the timing mark and the cam tool in place. This shows that at least the valves and pistons are in relation to each other. The Bentley manual must be followed closely for this procedure. This is one of those things that has to be done correctly.

Now IF the timing marks are aligned and IF the cam is in time, then roughly set the timing of the fuel  pump with the index on the timing cover. These marks may be found is several locations, this one on  the front side above the belt.

When all rough timing is done, install depth gauge adapter into fuel pump between lines and preload it  to about 3 mm.

Turn the engine counter-clockwise (against normal rotation direction) until the indicator stops moving.  Should be a little less than 90 degrees. Reset the indicator to zero. (you did leave the injectors out didn’t you?)

Turn the engine clockwise very carefully until the timing marks once again precisely line up. Do not pass the timing marks or start over. The indicator should show .100 mm of lift, which indicates exactly when the fuel will be sprayed into the cylinder. Adjust the fuel pump until it shows exactly what the manual calls for. Tighten the fuel pump and spin the motor by hand at least two times in the normal direction and recheck.

Please review the correct procedure for timing in the manual and do not rely on my memory for the correct procedure. I don’t rely on my memory. Just ask my wife…

This shows the timing belt cover where it will interfere with the A1 mount. It will have to be carefully cut away to allow clearance.

This is the cover after being trimmed to clear the mount. I don’t know how VW did it and did not find out after searching. It looks like a lot, but it will be close. Don’t cut any more than necessary as the  belts below it throw stuff in there if there is too much room. I saw a web page where the guy was  running without a timing cover altogether…. I would not advise that.

After overhauling several diesels from  pre '85 (A1) cars, I found that they use a steel timing cover and that it  already has this portion removed for the A1 side engine mount.   I will have to see if  I can  get a picture of one for  you.

Really filthy engine bay. This will not work. Also, the fuel filter will require relocating as will the horn.

Much better, let’s bring this Rabbit back inside and get started.

I wanted to show a common problem with the Caddy. Rust: either in the strut towers, inner fenders or lower control arm mounts. This one has corrosion in the inner fender. It is not affecting the strength  much (except in a crash) so it will not be repaired. It will be sprayed with a rust converter and allowed  to remain. This vehicle is a daily driver and not a show car.

If you have ever changed the oil and filter on any A1, you know what a pain this is. When you add the  oil cooler and thus lower the oil filter, it becomes impossible to change the filter. The horn will be relocated to the opposite side of the bay in front of the transmission where VW should have put it in the  first place.

The fuel filter requires relocating also. It will reside on the forward side of the same strut tower in a  position similar to that of the Jetta.

Here we go! I go in from the top. It can be done from the bottom as well, but I find this just as easy.  Place the transmission end below the frame rail and then swing the engine to the right, then line up the left (in this view) engine mount to locate the engine/transmission assembly.

Now you can see why the gap was cut in the timing cover. It is very tight here and small movements  are required to place the engine. Have patience though, VW has done it and so can you.

Once again, it is tight with little room to spare but it can be done. Notice how close the timing cover clip comes to the alternator fan – no more than ¼ inch…

Once the four mounting points are secure, under the car I go to attach the CV joints, exhaust, and lower radiator hose. I know it probably isn’t common practice to lift an entire front end with an engine hoist,  but this IS a very light car. Also, notice the beefy jack stands….

All you welders can quit snickering now. I am old and the vision ain’t what it used to be but it will work. The NA exhaust down pipe will not work because the Turbo outlet is centered more in the car that the original one. The fix I used was to cut the pipe at the flange, weld in a 4 ½ in straight piece and then the original elbow. Works don’t it?

Another view.

Next come the injectors and lines. I wire brush the threads and then coat them with anti-seize  compound. Also, always use new heat shields and ensure they are right side up. If you get one installed upside down, you will burn up the head.

If you will look in #3 cylinder, you will see the heat shield installed upside down. #4 is correct. I dropped the shield and that is how it landed. I used a piece of safety wire and pulled it out and flipped it over.

Some areas are tighter than others. Here the alternator output stud is less than ¼ inch from the upper hose clamp.

This is the final location for the fuel filter. Notice the filter got dented during the engine installation. It will be replaced at the same time of the first oil change, at 100 miles.

This was one of the problems I found was that the lower radiator hose (water pump inlet) contacted the edge of the A/C compressor. After searching around in the used hose bin, I found another hose that was made slightly different that the one installed. The VW shop had a new one for $10. Deal.

The differences between the two hoses are not evident until you put them side by side. The lower hose in this pic is the one required if you have A/C from the factory. Aftermarket A/C has the compressor on top of the alternator so it doesn’t matter.

The shape is more evident in this view. Once again, the one on the left is for non-A/C cars and the right is for factory A/C.

Once again, the little Caddy back in service providing reliable and economical transportation.

You gotta admit, one cool looking truck. 40+MPG doesn’t hurt either. Note the Turbo Diesel Jetta in the garage. It delivers between 40 and 45 MPG.

Ever seen anything cuter? The Caddy I mean! (Yes, that is the wife)

It should be said that there is no way a person could undertake a project like this and have a successful outcome unless you possess or have access to some basic equipment. Some of the required tools and equipment are on these next pages. Notice I do not have a palatial shop with everything the VW dealer  would have, but I have enough to do the job correctly. Starting with a engine hoist and engine stand shown here.

A view of the ‘shop side’ of a standard 24x24 garage. I guess you should have everything you need and  nothing you don’t. Note the cleaning tank and the rubber pad to stand on in front of it. I spend as much time cleaning parts as I do removing or installing them.

These are some of the specialized tools required for VW diesels. Most folks don’t want to spend the  bucks for tools you will only use rarely, so they rely on the local VW guru or dealer. Found here in no particular order are: compression tester, tensioner wrench, clutch alignment tool, 11mm allen wrench, exhaust C-clamp tool, fuel pump locking pin, depth mic for timing fuel pump w/adapter, socket for front axle nuts, cam locking tool, 12 point (double-6) allen wrenches for head bolts and CV bolts.

A different view. The hose on the left is for filling the pump and filter before starting the engine for the first time. The manual says the engine can suck fuel from the tank and it will start but you will fry a starter trying. The correct procedure is to fill an old-time oil squirt can with diesel (or ATF) and force it through the filter, pump, and injectors until it comes out the return line. Then the pump on the engine  only has to pressurize the fuel and make it spray to begin combustion.

Here we are all packed away, ready for the next time.

The  Caddy has accumulated  100 miles and it is time  for  the  first  oil change.  Whenever  I  overhaul a  component  (engine, transmission, transfer  case  or  differential) I always change the  oil (and filter  if applicable) at 100  miles, again at  1000 miles  and  again  at 3000  miles. This  procedure  ensures  that the  grit  and  crap  that is  always  left  in  the component  when overhauled  will  be  flushed  from  the part.

I  also follow  this  procedure when  placing  a  new  vehicle or piece of  equipment in  service.   You  will  not believe the  amount of metal and debris  that  is  found  in  the  filter  in a brand-new  engine  right  from  the  factory.

Here is a great practice that is always done on aircraft filters and should also be done on car filters. Here the can is cut off the base of the oil filter so the element can be examined. I did not have access to the correct tool for the job so I used a screwdriver and a hammer. Striking the side of the tip of the screwdriver cleanly cuts through the filter case.

A  filter  cutter is available from speed  shops  and  aviation  tool  suppliers  and  they  are  handy, and  expensive.    What  I  have  found that  works just as  well is  a  old-time can  opener found  at  a  antique mall.    They  cost a  couple of  bucks  and  work  just great.

Here the filter media is being cut away from the ends. Cut all the way around both ends an then lengthwise at the seam to release the filter media.

Here the media paper is being pulled away from the support tube.

The media is stretched out and examined carefully to see if any metal or other debris is caught in the paper. In this case, there was no contamination meaning this Caddy is now released for service.

The reason folks even today like the VW’s is that they simply perform well. They were never designed to impress the neighbors or in-laws. What they do is provide basic transportation very economically.

This Caddy and the 2002 S-10 directly behind it are rated to carry the same payload. The S-10 is more roomy and comfy, but it uses twice as much fuel to do the same job. As for driving them, there is no comparison, the Caddy feels like you are driving a go-kart. The handling is second to none – anywhere.

I hope you have enjoyed this presentation on the VW Diesel. It may be beneficial simply to observe the amount of work and decide whether or not you wish to go forward. The engine rebuilding is basically the same for all water-cooled engines with very few exceptions. The timing procedure is somewhat intimidating the first few times but it also gets easier with practice. Any time you swap engine types from one vehicle to another, there are always unexpected issues that have to be solved.

This swap was easier than most, and still there were issues. The exhaust down pipe had to be made from scratch. You could have Midas do it, most folks would. You could buy the correct part from VW – if you can find it. The motor mount and the timing cover required a solution. The wiring for the alternator was a little different. The air filter still does not have a good solution, either I use a rigid box and give up the stress bar or I use a K&N style and worry about water ingestion. The lower radiator hose would have failed had I not noticed it touching the A/C compressor and replaced it with  the correct part. There are always going to be some things that will make you scratch your head and wonder how you are going to fix THAT. But that is kind of the point. There is a certain kind of mental challenge in coming up with good fixes or solutions to these problems. One other thing, if you are the type of person who buys a vehicle new, drives it a couple of years and then trades it in, you probably won’t be happy with old VW’s. Or any old car for that matter. Some folks actually like  working on their cars sometimes. I know I do. I just don’t like doing the same thing over. Ever. The rebuild shown in this presentation historically has shown that further engine work will not be required for several or many years. The Jetta the wife drives had a similar overhaul 4 years and 40,000 miles ago and no repair work required since. Just routine stuff like oil and filters. But if you are the type that enjoys challenges and doesn’t mind getting REALLY greasy, maybe this job is for you!

Have fun, God bless, and keep the greasy side down!